September 08, 2010
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Food and More
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Latkes

By Kate Washington

A little potato pancake knowledge goes a long way in December. Hanukkah wouldn't be itself without latkes. Other parties also come to life with potato-pancake appetizers. And the warm, crisp cakes make a great holiday side dish.

But latkes aren't all created equal: Choose a Yukon Gold potato over a russet and your cake is extra creamy on the inside; add another root vegetable and it takes on different flavors. Experiment with our variations to find your favorite formula.

 

Potato Pancakes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes, plus 30 minutes to soak potatoes

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

NOTES: You can substitute celery root, carrots, or sweet potatoes for 8 ounces of the potatoes; peel, shred, and add to water in step 1 (see "Better Shredding"). You can also add 1 tablespoon chopped herbs in step 3.

2 pounds russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and rinsed

1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and halved, or 1/4 cup sliced green onions

2 large eggs, beaten to blend

3 tablespoons potato starch or all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper

About 2 cups vegetable oil

1. Using a hand grater or food processor, shred potatoes, working over a large bowl of cold water or frequently transferring shredded potatoes to water. Shred onion and add to bowl (if using green onion, reserve). Let stand for 30 minutes.

2. Drain potato mixture; wipe bowl clean. Follow steps 1 and 2 at right to dry potatoes; return them to bowl.

3. Add eggs, potato starch, salt, and pepper (and green onions, if using) to bowl and mix well.

4. Pour 1/2 inch oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan (with sides at least 2 in. tall) over medium-high heat. When surface of oil ripples slightly, shape potato mixture into cakes, following step 3 at right. Gently slide each from spatula into hot oil, 3 to 4 pancakes per batch (do not crowd pan). Cook until edges of pancakes are crisp and well browned and undersides are golden brown (lift with spatula to check), about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until remaining sides are golden brown, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then keep warm in a 200° oven while you cook remaining pancakes. Serve hot.

Per serving: 466 cal., 73% (342 cal.) from fat; 5 g protein; 38 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 28 g carbo (2.2 g fiber); 222 mg sodium; 71 mg chol.

Tips for success

The goal: pancakes that are light and crisp, not heavy or soggy. The trick is to soak the shredded potatoes to remove some of the starch (and keep them from changing color).

1. With your hands, squeeze excess water from a large handful of the potato mixture, then pile it on a clean kitchen towel.

2. Enclose potatoes tightly in towel and twist it to wring out remaining moisture. Repeat to dry all potatoes, using fresh towels if needed.

3. Shape each cake by scooping 1/3 cup of the potato mixture into one hand, then turn it onto a wide spatula. Flatten mixture into a pancake about 1/2 inch thick.
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